Despite the high profile robbery of Francis Ford Coppola’s petit-hotel in Palermo Viejo (Soho) two weeks ago, the area is nevertheless booming…
This weekend the weather was absolutely gorgeous and the streets of this small area of Palermo were packed with tourists, hipsters, regular ol’ Portenos, your editor, and his beautiful wife. The area has it’s detractors, but we’re not drinking the haterade…
No, Palermo Viejo is probably the most appealing neighborhood in Buenos Aires. Plaza Serrano, the hub of this little sub-barrio, can get old quickly, as it tends to get too busy, too touristy. But you can easily avoid it and enjoy the boutiques, the wares of the street-vendors, the bars, restaurants, and charm of the surrounding streets.
With the lower building heights, usually no more than three stories, the place just gets more light… it also allows for car pollution to escape more easily…
We’ve sometimes hesitated to give Palermo Viejo much acknowledgement in this blog because it feels like kind of a cop-out… The neighborhood has too many foreigners… It’s too gentrified… That may be true, but, those factors can also make the place more appealing. To each his own we say.
But if I were to place a bet on a neighborhood, we’d put our money there… but it can be tricky as there’s little for sale, plenty for rent, but little for sale… But we’ve seen some deals around.
Especially if there’s a dip in the economy here after the election, we’d watch this area like a hawk for any good deals…



7 comments
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October 17, 2007 at 2:34 am
David
Wow… Did you say just a month or so ago that Palermo Soho/Viejo was a bubble waiting to burst…( I think you actually said it was way too hot now)
We almost bought a place about 3 blocks from the Plaza. The neighborhood seemed a little too transitional still. One blocked seemed nice while the next one was downright ugly.
Partially because of your other post and our own gut feel, we passed on the place and have started looking again further north in Belgrano.
What are your thoughts on Belgrano?
October 24, 2007 at 5:39 am
Homer
Hello Will,
I would like to know your opinion about this: http://www.rampant-books.com/south_america_travel_tips/t_buenos_aires_argentina.htm
To me it looks quite biased and hateful… What do you think?
October 26, 2007 at 8:45 am
Matteo
Hi David-
Foreigners are only recently beginning to find Belgrano. In my opinion, Belgrano is the nicest and most undervalued neighborhood in the city. It’s the only area where locals tell me that they feel safe. It’s out of the tourist zone but still in the North of the city and very convenient. It’s a neighborhood of the city’s accomplished working professionals. You won’t find many ‘quality of life’ type problems like the begging street families you find in Recoleta, Palermo, and Micro Centro. It’s a cohesive neighborhood that doesn’t tolerate that type of stuff. Check out the area bounded by the following streets: Cabildo; Libertador; Frederico Lacroze; and Blanco Encalada. Try a meal at Big Mamma’s on Juramento. You’ll probably wonder why you didn’t know an area like this existed in the city.
Regarding Palermo SoHo: Good choice avoiding it. Palermo SoHo is an accident that keeps happening. It’s completely unsafe after the stores close at night. This time last year there was a problem with “restaurant invasions” where all the patrons were being robbed at dinner time. See:
http://www.goodairs.com/2006/09/ugh-not-again-palermo-crime-wave.html
http://www.goodairs.com/2006/07/bayres-crime-wave.html
If that’s not enough…it floods when it rains a lot.
October 26, 2007 at 12:20 pm
Editor
Hi Matteo,
I’m going to respectfully disagree with you about Palermo Soho… There is flooding and were some robberies. But the people I know who live there say they couldn’t live anywhere else in the city…
But, I do agree that there are some nice areas of Belgrano. I’ve looked there and found some good values. It’s good for residential. I was previously on the market for office space and it was not central enough for my needs.
Cheers,
Will
October 31, 2007 at 1:03 am
Trendy Palermo Viejo
Hi. There is flooding in some streets of Palermo Viejo, mostly on the Hollywood side. But hey, Belgrano has severe flooding problems in some streets too. Unfortunately, this issue is not solved yet in our city and with global warming, it seems we are getting each time heavier rains. Even the obelisk’s area (downtown) was inundated with last week’s rain. Although Belgrano has many nice areas and you can get anything you need on Cabildo Ave. (it is like another city in this city), it is too crowded for my taste and not very safer, even during the day.
November 7, 2007 at 7:43 pm
gustavo
This was Palermo Soho last April. Ja ja…
http://www.telenocheblog.com.ar/archives/2007/04/palermo_soho_o_palermo_venecia.html
January 8, 2008 at 10:36 pm
elayner
You must stop ending your sentences with ellipses.